A food-walk with tradition - Mylapore

Apoorva Sripathi navigates the ancient streets of Mylapore, so that you know where to get luscious kozhukattais, brightly-coloured vadacurry, crunch sundal, and that perfect cup of filter coffee

Rayars Mess. Photo: Susanna Myrtle Lazarus

Rayars Mess

This hole-in-the wall joint, established 70 years ago, still runs to a packed house. There are queues and there are queues. The one outside Rayars Mess reminds me of the crowd of devotees snaking their way up the hill at Tirupathi. When I finally get a chance to go inside the cramped room that seats 16 people (clearly meant for eight maximum), and sample the fluffly, oversized and crispy vadais, I realise why this place is an institution. Since they were out of Mysore bondas, I settle for their sweet — a piece of gulab jamun that is cloyingly syrupy; but it rounds off the snack just as well.

Cost: Rs. 9 for one vadai and Rs. 12 for the sweet

Sri Karpagambal Kabali Sweet Stall

While this 30-year-old stall is not associated with the legendary Karpagambal Mess, it is known for its excellent onion samosas. Tiny and crisp, they are filled with deep-fried and slightly caramelised onions. In seconds, I polish off half the packet. The unevenly-sized mint pakodas (ask for pudina pakodas) are even more addictive. And the best part is they don’t leave irritating traces of oil on your fingers.

Cost: Rs. 20 for 100 gm of samosas and Rs. 28 for 100 gm of mint pakodas

Jannal Bajji Kadai

As the name states, this place is known for its delectable bajjis that are served through a jannal (window). Situated on the same street as the Kapaleeswarar Temple, you have to jostle past motorists, walkers, shoppers and visitors to the temple. A plate of four vivid orange-coloured bajjis, served with white coconut chutney dotted with flecks of green chillies gives enough zing to compensate for the bajjis’ blandness. That said, the bajjis are soft and satiate you easily.

Cost: Rs. 20 for a plate of four

Mami Tiffen Shop. Photo: Apoorva Sripathi

Mami Tiffen Shop

With Vinayaka Chaturthi round the corner, it’s no surprise that kozhukattais are the flavour of the season. The 44-year-old Mami Tiffen Stall captures this essence through its posters advertising the different varieties that are on offer (they even have special packs). The tiny white dumplings are contrasted with the sweet brown filling of coconut and jaggery — the result is a spongy burst of flavours in my mouth. The kaara kozhukattai is half-moon shaped and the filling tastes like rice upma. However, one of the highlights of the evening is the highly spiced podi dosai; the red chillies amongst the podi makes me reach out for water. And more sweet kozhukattais.

Cost: Rs. 30 for five pieces of kozhukattais and Rs. 30 for podi dosai

Kalathy News Mart

If it’s rosemilk then there’s just one place you need to be. Kalathy News Mart or Kalathy Kadai has been around for more than 85 years and it still serves refreshing rosemilk and goli and paneer sodas. Although battling the crowd to place your order is a tough task, the rewards are worth it. The candy pink rosemilk is simple, sweet and milky and is served with or without ice. The paneer soda has a faint smell and taste of rosewater that gives it a festive edge; it isn’t too fizzy and after all that I’ve eaten it helps me digest.

Cost: Rs. 12 for a glass of iced rosemilk

Senthil Softy Zone

Every area has a place for quick-eats and Senthil Softy Zone is Mylapore's. The place has flavoured milk, milkshakes, fresh fruit juices and of course, soft serve ice creams to quell the heat on a hot afternoon along with a variety of puffs (baby corn, cheese, paneer), samosas and sandwiches that are a hit among the young crowd. The mint lime juice, especially, is much sought after.

Cost: Rs. 9 for a glass of mint lime juice

Leo Coffee Mocha

No self-respecting food walk that involves a majority of south Indian tiffin and breakfast dishes is complete without a serving of filter coffee and it is fitting that I head to a place that is known for its coffee powder for more than a hundred years. Except that this kiosk is only five months old informs a woman behind the counter. Leo Coffee that is right next door has introduced several such stalls across the city. There is a blackboard that lists the several hot and cold beverages, written in coloured chalk. The only disappointment is that coffee isn’t served in davara-tumblers because paper cups make more sense. But that doesn’t take away from the fact that it is aromatic, dark and frothy — all the makings of a good filter coffee.

Cost: Rs 15 for a cup of coffee

H 24 Aug 2014